It’s delicious straight from the tin, it’s good to have when you need a snack or a starter for unexpected visitors.
And the cans’ colorful wrappings look good – the reason why I sometimes just have to buy them.
So I couldn’t help laughing when I read Jeff Gordinier’s story in Esquire.Â

Our kitchen was microscopic – so we have to be creative and selective to get room for the things we need and things that are important to us. Like our collection of Tinned Fish together with my old favorite AIAIAI headset and an art memory by Sophus Ritto from his Limbo Kathmandu events in back in 2015.
Growing up in downtown Copenhagen and being a frequent guest with my parents at the city’s many semi-gastronomic outlets (aka Værtshuse), I have a special affection for Lisbon’s tinned delicacies.
Back then, most of these places functioned as canteens where workers could enjoy a few beers with their homemade lunch. If they didn’t have any, they could usually choose from a few dishes like meatballs served with pickled cucumber salad and rye bread, soft white bread served with a few slices of cheese, or sardines served from an opened can with two slices of rye bread, a quarter of lemon, and “pimped” up with a sprig of parsley.
As a teenager, we lived off sandwiches made from two slices of bread, cans of sardines, tuna, or salmon mixed with cheap mayonnaise, and two slices of bread during countless rock festivals…
When I started playing chef for friends, deep-fried breaded mussels (from Limfjorden) became my ‘house snack’, followed by Salade Niçoise with huge chunks of tuna.
Today, we use all kinds of tinned fish. The tuna is used for one of our Italian favourites: Vitello Tonnato; the sardines are served on toasted bread with a good olive oil; the anchovies are used for our Andalusian toasts—or all kinds of fish and seafood straight from the can with a sunny tomato.
Tinned fish is probably the most widely distributed product from Portugal—you can find it in supermarkets and grocery stores all over the world! And most people we know have cans hidden away in cupboards, drawers, fridges, and other places they use for storing food items… just in case something happens.
So now that you can’t be here in Lisbon, why not use the situation to get a taste of Portugal at home…
Enjoy,
/Thomas