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Dinner at Penalva da Graca
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A busy day during the high season.
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Lisbon's popular Tram 28 is only 3 minutes from Tins Lisbon. Here is all you need to know.
Don’t expect to get the best sardines during Saint Antonio
Lisbon's festivals starts in June. But the sardines starts in July!
Lisbon Sardine Festival – The Feast of St. Anthony in June said an update that hit my inbox a few days ago. No it’s not – it’s a religious event where the Lisboetas celebrate St. Antonio with parties in all Lisbon’s neighborhoods.
Already last week the first outdoor tents opened here in Graca – and last night when we walked to Chinatown through Mouraria restaurant there were colorful garlands tied up between all the houses, tents on all squares where the local sports clubs, Unions, scouts, groceries etc serve fast food from the grills that cover everything in the smoke from the sausage, bifanas, and sardines.
We just love this time of the year. It’s very colorful, crazy and very lively with happy people everywhere. But sardines? No way!
Insider advice: When to get the best Sardines.
But as lifelong fish lovers, we always wondered why the sardines at the St. Anthony grills in June never tasted quite right.
One of Lisbon’s countless outdoor Grills during June. Go with the flow and join the tradition. Just remember that its a month or two ahead of the season… I fan feel the heartburns just by looking at the photo.
Every year, we’d force ourselves to try them, only to end up with heartburn and a lingering aftertaste.
The secret? Don’t eat the sardines until the locals say it’s time.
Our friend Catarina, who used to run the best tasca in town together with her husband Carlos who comes from a family of fishermen, was the first to tell us the truth: the best time to eat sardines in Lisbon is not during the June festivals, but from late July to August. That’s when the sardines are fresh, fat, and full of flavor, straight from the Atlantic.
We followed Catarina's advice.
A month later we got a phone call: They are here…
Intuitively we knew what she meant and rushed to the restaurant where all our local friends were already sitting at the table waiting for the new sardines to get served.
Catarina was right. The fish she served had nothing to do with the bad-smelling, fat tasting ones we we’re used to eating at the festivals a month before. And at all the previous years festivals.
It was back in 2016 we met The Sardine God as I blogged (link below).
Since then we have never touched the sardines before the season starts at the end of July – beginning of August.
Don't panic - it's easy to get the BBQ treat during St Antonio.
Come as you are / dressed as sardine, po of Basil, Beer or… St Antonio in Graca, Lisbon
Maybe sardines tasted better back when St. Anthony’s festival was all about matchmaking.
Today, it’s promoted as the festival of sardines, but don’t let that fool you. There’s no harm in joining the fun and grabbing a sardine or two during the June parties, but remember: the real stars of the season arrive later.
If you can’t resist the sardines – go ahead. Even the Portuguese do that. But just keep in mind that the ones you eat have nothing to do with the beauties you get served in August. And if you wake up with severe hangovers – then you know why 🙂
If you prefer to wait for the best, don’t worry. Lisbon’s festivals offer plenty of other treats-bifanas, pregos, chorizos-all perfect with a cold caneca (large beer), imperial (small beer), or a glass of vinho verde.
Have a fantastic Festival!!!
Thomas
More about Santo Antonio
Planning Lisbon in June? Discover Santo Antonio Festival Lisbon 2026 in Graça with BBQ, street parties, and our Google Map of the best festas.
What you need to know about Santo Antonio Lisbon’s Biggest Festival
Explore the unique tradition of sardines in Lisbon. Learn why sardines are a symbol of Lisbon’s culture and when and how to eat them.
Planning to try sardines in Lisbon? Don’t be fooled by the June festivals. locals know the best, freshest sardines arrive in July and August.
TO BE UPDATED
In June all Lisbon is PACKED with parties. We have 3 parties within 3 minutes walk from our door. Among them the two biggest and most authentic ones. The one in Vila Bertha and the one at Largo Do Graca.
NOTE: This is a repost from July 2018. Catarina’s Tasca is closed. Today Taberna do Mar has taken over her premises where they serve the best fish menu in Lisbon.
But we still call her to get updates on the sardines. When they arrive we go to Cova do Vapor and eat them
